24 Hours in New Orleans: A Mini Mardi Gras Bender
One day, one city, one very full itinerary for Carnival season. Wear comfortable shoes.
New Orleans rewards a short trip better than almost any American city. Everything you came for is close together: food, music, architecture and a culture of celebration that peaks during Mardi Gras. You can't see it all in 24 hours, but you can get a good taste. Here's a one-day plan for Carnival season.
Morning: beignets and the French Quarter
Start the classic way: beignets under a snowdrift of powdered sugar and a café au lait at Café du Monde on Decatur Street, which has been serving them since 1862. Go early because the line builds fast. Then walk it off through the French Quarter. Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral and the cast-iron balconies of Royal Street look their best before the crowds arrive.
Midday: the St. Charles streetcar
Catch the St. Charles Avenue streetcar, which has been running for well over a century. Ride it through the Garden District under live oaks, past grand mansions. During Carnival, the oaks along the parade route are draped in beads thrown from earlier floats. Hop off for lunch. A po'boy (roast beef "debris" or fried shrimp) or a bowl of gumbo is the right call.
Afternoon: parade time
In the weeks before Fat Tuesday, krewes roll almost every day. Check the parade schedule and stake out a spot along St. Charles or Napoleon Avenue. Bring a bag for throws, stand behind any barricades and don't step between floats. Families set up ladders along the route for kids to sit in, and that's part of the scene.
Snack on king cake while you wait. It's a ring of sweet dough in purple, green and gold sugar, sold all Carnival season. Whoever finds the tiny plastic baby inside traditionally buys the next one.
Evening: dinner and Frenchmen Street
For dinner, choose between Creole fine dining in an old-line dining room and a casual plate of red beans and rice or boiled crawfish if they're in season. Then head to Frenchmen Street in the Marigny. Its clubs and bars have live jazz, brass bands and blues every night. It's where locals go to hear music without the chaos of Bourbon Street.
Late night
New Orleans doesn't really close. If you have energy left, grab a late bite, wander the quieter blocks of the Quarter and finish the loop with a second round of beignets.
Quick tips
- Book early. Hotels fill up and prices climb for Carnival weekends.
- Walk or take the streetcar. Parade routes close streets, and driving is a headache.
- Carry cash for small vendors, and keep your phone charged for the parade-tracking apps.
- Respect the neighborhoods. People live here year-round.
